I'm talking specifically about ramadaan, in the last ten nights (I'm not sure about the rest of the year), but if any muslims come to cairo during Ramadaan again, I seriously suggest you go to amr ibn al-as. I went there on the night of the 28th for solaat ul 'ishaa, taraweeh and tahajjud - and considering I was born and raised in a western country all my life, I have to say this was one of the most beautiful experiences of my life. I've been to many of the masaajid mentioned in the usual guidebooks etc, but none have compared to the atmosphere at Amr ibn al-As. Worshippers in the thousands - shoulder to shoulder - praying under the stars (its a classical courtyard type of masjid)- in the cool evening weather - through to the still of the night. The prayer led by an imaam with the most powerful yet beautiful voice, it was truly amazing. Never have I stood so long in prayer and had my heart moved by every word. After standing for 2.5 hours in taraweeh, the imaam recited the most beautiful duaa for 45 minutes (which normally would have seemed a long time for me), but it was simply so heart moving, even the imaam was in tears. I can not put the whole experience justly into words, but trust me, if you have been used to masaajids in western countries, or local masjids in cairo - just go to Amr ibn Al-As in the evening during a night of ramdaan and insha'Allah you will agree, that it is truly amazing.

(I know Ramadaan is a year away, but hey, the suggestion is here).

(p.s if you have no knowledge of the arabic language - at all - the whole experience might drag on a bit, so arabic helps.)