Getting there: Many international airlines serve Cairo, including KLM, British Airways and Air France. Trains, buses and flights on EgyptAir (www.egyptair.com, 800-334-6787) make the trip from Cairo to Luxor.
How to go: Many visitors go on an organized tour that often includes a cruise on the Nile. I went on my own, with a friend; we armed ourselves with Lonely Planet guidebooks and wore clothing in keeping with Muslim tradition -- covering ourselves from ankle to neck.
Safety: Thus attired, we didn't experience any sexual harassment and did not feel unsafe. The biggest hassle: constant badgering from peddlers. Be polite, but very firm. Language was not a big problem -- you can almost always find someone who speaks some English.
However, the U.S. Department of State (www.travelstate.gov) writes the following on its website: ''Egypt has a low crime rate but has suffered a series of terrorist attacks in or near tourist sites in late 2004 and in 2005. Americans should be especially vigilant in crowded tourist areas [and] remain aware of their personal security . . . As anywhere, travelers may gain a measure of safety by remaining particularly alert to their surroundings, by avoiding crowded tourist areas, and by visiting resorts and hotels with significant physical setback and security procedures.'' The Sinai region has been particularly vulnerable.
Tour guides: Hotels are all affiliated with guides and drivers, and can arrange tours of temples. Negotiate the price. Use only licensed tour guides wearing badges from the Egyptian government.
Highlights: I visited the Temple of Karnak and the valleys of the Kings and Queens in Luxor, Cairo and the pyramids in Giza, Alexandria, Mount Sinai and Dahab on Red Sea coast. Other tourist-route highlights include Abu Simbel, reached via Aswan, and Nile cruises.
WHERE TO STAY
Cairo
Grand Hyatt Cairo, Corniche El Nile, Garden City (011-20-2) 365-1234, www.cairo.grand.hyattcom. Doubles from $191.
St. Joseph Hotel, Khaled Ben El Walid St.; (011-20-95) 238-1707. Rooms from $31, includes breakfast.
Mina Palace Hotel, Al-Corniche opposite Mummification Museum, Luxor, (011- 20-95) 237-2074. Doubles from $18.
CRUISES
Nubian Nile Cruises offers a Best of the Nile voyage of four days for $420 per person, double occupancy, starting in Aswan and visiting Luxor, Thebes and Karnak; www.nubiannilecruises.com.
Sonesta Nile Cruises has three ships sailing the river -- the Nile Goddess, the Sun Goddess and the Moon Goddess. Rates start at $160 per night per person. 800-SONESTA; www.sonesta.com.
Nile River Cruises lists a dozen cruise lines operating on the Nile. 800-680-2858; www.nileriver cruise.com.
TOURS
A wide range of options is offered. Operators include:
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