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Author Topic: Luxor in a nutshell
hassancheb
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Since many visitors fly directly to Luxor, it's worth outlining a few features of the local tourism scene. In recent years its tone has been set by independent travellers rather than package tourists, especially by young backpackers travelling through the Middle East, whose Egyptian itinerary is confined to Aswan, Luxor, Hurghada and Dahab. However, if the recovery in package tourism continues, the balance may tip in the other direction. Meanwhile, though, Luxor remains a kind of Goa on the Nile.

Some travellers expect to get the cheapest price as a matter of right, never considering things from the locals' standpoint . Hoteliers, felucca captains and salesmen earn good money one day, then little or nothing for ages - even in high season. The children who try to sell you The Egyptian Gazette for ten times its cover price are family breadwinners who tramp the streets till late at night. The hotel touts who swear that your place of choice is closed or dirty know that most hotels in Luxor are half empty - so every guest counts. At no-star hotels , the price depends on how full they are, how many there are of you, and at what time you arrive - the cost per person is negotiable. Be fair and realistic, even if you're on a tight budget. To get a room with a private bath for ŁE7-10 per person is a good deal by any standards; trying to force them to go any lower is really taking advantage.

Where such hotels make their money is by charging exorbitant sums for taxi , caleche or donkey tours . Although it's wise not to take the first deal offered, also bear in mind that the lowest price may not necessarily be a good deal: you could end up with someone who's so bad that they have to undercut better guides in order to get any work. The easiest way to spoil your day is to ask what someone else paid; if you're happy with what you've done and can afford it, why worry about what amounts to the price of a cup of tea or coffee back home?

That said, it's best to be forewarned about a few scams. Shopkeepers often ask tourists to read a letter from abroad, which is invariably a pretext to lure you into their shop. Another trick is to ask you to buy duty-free alcohol for their "brother's wedding" - a way of acquiring cheap booze for resale to hotels. If you want to go ahead, fine, but you're entitled to a commission on the deal. Taking commissions is universal practice; tour guides get a percentage of every transaction they facilitate. Finally, foreign women should be wary about holiday romances: gigolos abound in Luxor.

Hissed invitations and whiffs of smoke by the Nile attest to a smoking sub-culture that's stronger in Luxor than anywhere else in Egypt except Dahab. Bango (marijuana) is easy to obtain if you know where to ask, and smoking shouldn't cause any problems if it's done discreetly; several low-budget hotels have a liberal atmosphere in this respect. A packet ( talga) costs ŁE15-20, or less if one buys several. Hashish is costlier and usually adulterated with henna. Bango, too, may be cut with molukhiyya (a vegetable), so it's better to buy whole buds, not broken stuff. Caleche drivers are likeliest to sell you rubbish.
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Automatik
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All very positive. Nice change. Add to it that it has the best temples in the world and you have Luxor. Wonderful place.

Things have changed slightly though since this piece as written by someone who visited a while back. Since then, there has been a change in the ratio of packpackers to those on tours. Backpackers are now the minority and many people on tours are affraid of leaving their groups.

Venture out. It makes the holiday much more interesting.


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denisegr
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I was in Egypt earlier this year and for various reasons got left on my own in luxor on three seperate occassions. Never at any time did i feel the slightest concern, the locals were friendly, accomodating and very interesting to talk to. In fact on these occassions i enjoyed myself immensely and got a new insight into the real people of egypt. Cannot wait to return, i love the place.
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Originally posted by Luxorlover:
All very positive. Nice change. Add to it that it has the best temples in the world and you have Luxor. Wonderful place.

Things have changed slightly though since this piece as written by someone who visited a while back. Since then, there has been a change in the ratio of packpackers to those on tours. Backpackers are now the minority and many people on tours are affraid of leaving their groups.

Venture out. It makes the holiday much more interesting.



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Automatik
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It helps you understand why those that live there love it so much
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akshar
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quote:
Originally posted by hassancheb:
Some travellers expect to get the cheapest price as a matter of right, never considering things from the locals' standpoint . Hoteliers, felucca captains and salesmen earn good money one day, then little or nothing for ages - even in high season. The children who try to sell you The Egyptian Gazette for ten times its cover price are family breadwinners who tramp the streets till late at night.


that is such a good point you made and I wish more people were aware of it.

I would also like to say a word about Baksheesh. I know a lot of tourists hate it and feel it is a rip off tax.

Just to reassure you locals pay all the time, it is not something just invented to take more money of the tourist.

I often tell my guests a story to explain how much a part of the culture it is and is paid by everyone at all levels.

I was seriously ill with a kidney infection and the Dr came out to the house. He prescribded intravenous anti biotics and his nurse came out to the house twice a day to give them to me. The dr came on another house call and finally at the edn I went to his surgery.

My husband paid him the fee and and then slipped him a substationail baksheesh. I was so suprised although I was used to paying to people providing 'tourist services' I didn't expect to pay to a professional man who was being paid a fee. And being paid by another local man. I find this story helps tourists understand baksheesh a bit better.

I know many receipients who go home with a nice tip and the whole family calls blessings down on the tourist that gave the tip.

------------------
Jane Akshar UK Co-owner of www.flatsinluxor.co.uk Appartments and Tours in Luxor


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ExptinCAI
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I'm not Egyptian, but I cringed at your story of tipping a doctor with cash. Egypt is very class-oriented and I cannot imagine a doctor who would want to be tipped as a delivery boy. A personal gift for a family member of his, perhaps. But cash?!

To me, all this story did is reinforce the stereotype of Luxor's population, who are quite famous among Egyptians as being...ah, let's just say it - greedy.

My physician in Cairo would be deeply insulted and probably if ANYONE ever offered him baksheesh.

While the joke is that you tip for everything in Egypt, the reality is that it is limited to certain types of services, and those are either to do with hospitality sector (hotels, restaurants, cafes, tour guides) manual-labor oriented, deliveries, home-repair, or when someone really goes beyond the agreed-upon services/price.

On a personal note, I find the way I am treated as a tourist in Luxor is absolutely embarrassing and it is like nowhere else in Egypt. People don't just ask for money - they downright demand money for nothing. Embarrassing because anywhere outside of Luxor, Egyptians are extremely generous and kind-hearted to strangers and will go out of their way to do you a favor for free and out of the goodness of their hearts.

I know I sound like I'm bashing Luxor, but I find these explanations are a load of poop. There are many poor people in Egypt and those people still have manners, still have kind hearts, and still manage to give you a smile for free instead of screaming after you gimeonedolar!


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Automatik
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I think that Akshar was right to tip her doctor. He gave good service and it shows her pleasure. How can she give a present to his family if she does not know them. His bill would have been low and he would have been grateful.

When I saw the doctor on the West BAnk I had a series of X-rays, examinations and medicines. The total bill was 50 LE. I think that it would have cost me many times that amount in Cairo. In Cairo wages and fees are such that there is no need for that generous top-up. For the family I lived with, the usual fee for a home visit was 20 LE.

In the south even professionals are very badly paid. It is difficult to make a comparison.


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ExptinCAI
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It's called a class system. You don't like it, I don't like it, but Egyptians live by it and it's their country.

Maybe it's ok to tip a doctor in luxor as if he was the waiter, but in Cairo it would be an insult and the doctor would take it as if you were treating him like the delivery man or the bawab. It's not about money - and I just mentioned a gift - because that would show that you took care enough to ask around to find out about his family, ask what would be appropriate, etc. and that would have a hugely different meaning than tipping someone with cash.

If you can't get that difference in a class system, or you're going to tell me there is no such thing in Egypt...or if in Luxor cash is king - then it really is a little desert island of its own - and, never mind.

[This message has been edited by ExptinCAI (edited 07 October 2004).]


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Automatik
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I am not saying anything - just that in Luxor everyone is poorly paid. Cash is equally as welcome as a cake. Offering the man money is not an insult. It is just saying that his services were so good that his bill was not big enough. He would not have been offended.

Nobody would want to insult anybody, and Akshar would not have done anything that would have upset him. She will be guaranteed good service next time too.


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akshar
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I didn't give the tip my husband did. As I said I was suprised that he was tipped and thank you for telling me customs are different in Cairo.

Certainly here in Luxor I see my husband tip everyone and he also gives to every beggar that asks him.

When we were in Cairo a couple of days ago a beggar approached as we were stuck in a traffic jam. I ignored him but my husband gave him money. As he did he joked with the driver he hoped no one saw or we would have every beggar in Cairo round the car. But that still didn't stop him giving.

Although people in Luxor may ask everyone for a tip my experience of my family is that they will also give to everyone that asks.

------------------
Jane Akshar UK Co-owner of www.flatsinluxor.co.uk Appartments and Tours in Luxor


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Automatik
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You are right Akshar. They are not greedy they are just poor.
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